Sander, who took back the reins from Belgian designer Raf Simons
after he was named to Dior in April, experimented with layering
and eye-catching contrasts: the playful pairing of a sleeveless
blue coat with a white shirt, cropped pants baring ankles and
Bermuda shorts morphing into culottes.
There was a whiff of nostalgia for well-scrubbed schoolboys in
their blouses in the 19th century or jaunty sailors on shore
leave in the silhouettes.
A midnight blue cardigan with acidic lemon, emerald and scarlet
stripes was a nod at the abstract painter Piet Mondrian.
Blocks of primary colours, red, green and blue, dominated the
collection, while natural fibres -- poplin, cotton, silk, mohair,
wool and linen -- had pride of place for fabrics.
Sander, who founded the house that bears her name in 1968, left
in 2004 after falling out with its new owners, the Italian group
Prada. Since then she has collaborated with various outfits,
notably the Japanese group Uniqlo.